Blick in das Papiermuseum in Amalfi

The paper on the Vatican – hand drawn in Amalfi

The beautiful spiral Amalfi coast is on the wish list of many sea Voyage and the absolute right to. Especially the town of Amalfi is for sailors and cruise tourists an irresistible attraction. Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the streets tip: in a former paper mill located, the paper Museum is a secret. Because of Amalfi has a rich history in the manufacture of the best papers in the world. Even today the Pope for documents has sheets of paper out of this place in the hands. 

Peaceful it is down here. A few spiders crawling in the cracks of the old building as we enter. On this hot summer day, the Coolness of the catacombs is a blessing for us. Around us the old machines from wood and heavy stone that have already turned a few decades ago their last rounds. Over many years, the manufacture of paper around Amalfi was a flourishing craft, of Prestige, wealth and incomparable. For a few moments from our visit to the leaves "Museo della Carta" this old time paper manufacturing guess. It almost seems you can bolt the slow Pounding of the beat and to hear the lapping of the mill wheels. 

Eingang zum Papiermuseum in Amalfi
The paper Museum is located in a medieval factory building. In addition to old machines and workpieces 3250 volumes in the library may be stored with a unique Knowledge in the areas of paper.

Paper Museum "Museo della Carta" – a piece of ancient culture history

Only a few hundred metres from the centre of Amalfi away the catacombs, in which we find ourselves are. At the end of the main street, Via Lorenzo d'amalfi, past the shops and the last of Hotels, is nestled to the left of the nondescript building from the 13th century. Century to the rocks. Who has next to the Duomo, the famous beaches and narrow streets have a penchant for culture, history, should allow for the extra hour of time for the Museum. Because the manufacture of paper, is a connection to the past as a powerful Republic. Amalfi was, after all, thanks to the intensive relations with Byzantium for over 200 years, the pivotal point in Italy. These trade connections brought the craft of paper production early in the coastal region. In its heyday, more than 60 paper mills were located in the administration area. The precious commodity was from there, from the age of 12. Century in Western Europe. 

Mann an Maschine auf historischem Foto in der Papiermühle
Old photographs in the Museum show how the work in the paper mills of the area looked like. Amalfi was thanks to the relations with Byzantium, early on, a major hub for the paper production. The secret of the correct manufacture of non-dominated many regions of similar quality.

Upcycling at 12. Century – from rags to luxury

Guided tour of the stone walls we are surprised, especially about the ingenuity of the old paper manufacturer. Instead of buying expensive cotton from distant countries, continued to shred the coasts of Amalfi for the paper on old rags and Clothes. A whole professional group was formed in the area, which is collected from everywhere, remnants of cotton, linen, hemp and Jute, and the mills sold. As the old garments contain no modern fibres such as Nylon or Polyester, the organic Basis for the manufacture of paper is ideal. 

Zerrissene Lumpen in einem Flechtkorb
Traditionally, the paper made from Rags or rags was manufactured.
These were crushed a long time, until they were typical of the pulp.
Stofffetzen in einem alten Steintrog
Scraps of cloth, were collected from anywhere, and crushed the paper-based porridge.

Many different comminution techniques advanced to grips with the materials in the mills. The resulting pulp was perfect for the typical Amalfi paper. From waste product to a luxury good for scholars, clerics, and Rich – a very clever idea from a financial point of view. Paper from Amalfi was, therefore, much cheaper than Papyrus and tanned animal skins.

Until about 1800 the paper producers switched to a more cellulose. Until then, the manufacture of paper was in fact an Upcycling-example par excellence. 

Papierbögen auf altem Holzsessel
The finished product was the best hand-made paper, the esteemed artists, nobles, and clerics alike.

Each sheet was grueling manual labor

During the guided tour through the Museum, one gets a very good impression in the many steps that required a single sheet of paper. From the clothes rests had to be removed by Hand initially, all buttons, nails, and embroidery. The remaining substances were forced to again and again to be brightened. To go through to ultimately tens of stages of processing. 

Historisches Foto mit Mann bei der Papierherstellung in Amalfi
Many of the grips were needed to keep the finished paper in his hands.
Alte Maschine aus Holzhämmern in Steingemäuer
The old wooden hammers were manually operated to reduce the size of the rags is always more. A job that could take days.
The expensive paper was, therefore, only for the well-heeled citizens available.

In the basement you can still see the original wooden hammers that were used at the beginning for the crushing. Also to the other machines, which made the editing with the centuries easier, are original issued faithfully. Difficult due to the "paper Dutchman is" in motion, as our Guide the water lock to open. This invention has to be a boon for the paper-makers. Sharp Blades shredded the rags in a much faster and cheaper. 

Alte Katakomben mit Maschinen zur Papierherstellung
A view into the Interior of the old paper mill with the big mill wheel.
Ein Mühlrad mit Klingen im Papiermuseum
The "paper Dutchman", a machine with a Blade, and a sophisticated System, has revolutionized the manufacture of paper from the 1800's. In the paper Museum, a Version that would work today, it still stands.

Paper draw for visitors to Join in

A nice highlight of the Museum is the pool in which we can deep dive and now "our" paper from the pulp can draw is. Theoretically, we could pick up after a few weeks of drying, these leaves. However, it is questionable whether one could write on our holey copies, actually. Talented paper Creator are not lost to us. We prefer to get professional copies at the output in the Shop. These are made in the only remaining paper mill in the place of the "Cartiera F. Amatruda", a few meters behind the Museum. 

Holzrahmen auf Beckenrand
The making of the Paper, it needs a wood frame and a sieve.
The two parts are connected to the fibers from the water bucket.
Mann beim Papierschöpfen aus einem Wasserbecken
Deep you have to lean over the edge to fill the screen. Depending on the use and skill of the finished sheet of paper is thinner or thicker. Not so easy, as we have found!
Papierbrei auf einem Holzrahmen wird in die Kamera gehalten
In the screen, the fibers that make up the hand-made paper, hang.
Ein Museumsmitarbeiter presst den Papierbrei auf eine Leinwand
The pulp is carefully transferred to a canvas or felt. Did it work?
Zellulose Brei auf einer alten Leinwand zur Papierherstellung
As you can see in our example, we would have to practice you still need, to make the best paper.
Holzpresse zur Papierherstellung
An ancient wooden press, and we must hang our newly created paper sheets to Dry.
Papierbrei auf Leinwänden zum Trocknen auf Wäscheleinen
Piece by piece, were hung the screens with the hand-made paper. Once they are dried, they can be used and processed ready to be replaced. As long as we are not able to wait, unfortunately, during our visit – maybe a late visitor is happy about the finished copies?
Viele Bögen Papier in einer Presse
This old "couch press" shows countless sheets of old paper , caused in the paper mills to Amalfi. With the help of the press, the paper was pressed bows to the felt pieces used to be so long, until all moisture was evaporated.

The paper of the popes

The paper production in Amalfi was in its heyday, an absolute success. Thanks to the watermark has evidence that the oldest documents on Amalfi paper to the early 12. Century have emerged. Only nobles, rich merchants, and clergy from the Vatican could afford the high-quality Material. This quality assured paper mills, after the political demise of the Republic of Survival. Only with the industrial production of the importance for the wholesale trade fell further and further. 

Wasserzeichen auf Papier im Gegenlicht
Clearly you can see the watermark on this sheet Amalfi paper
Papierbögen mit Letterpress Schriften
The Amalfi is estimated paper high artistic and official purposes. Examples of the use of there is to admire in the Museum.

Some of the very few paper mills have your craft store. For special occasions and documents customer like to treat yourself to the typical paper. Even now, with modern manufacturing methods are used, estimated the features. Artists use it for drawings, wedding couples special wedding invitations. And the Vatican denies its correspondence on the paper of the popes. A small note book moves as a Souvenir in our bag – who knows what an important trip notes, we will leave it.

Auslage in Museumsshop in Amalfi
Those who want to take some Souvenirs from the history of the paper, may do this at the Museum shop in peace.
Blütenblätter in Büttenpapier
In the last few years, the only remaining paper mill Amalfi has made a name for itself with exceptional papers, like this one with real wild flowers. Are in demand products for wedding invitations and official correspondence of the Vatican.
Verzierte Lederbücher in der Sonne
The incredibly intricate notebooks with hand-made paper from the Region would be ideal as a travel book. One of them has won his way into our Luggage.
Lederbücher und Tintenfässchen in einem Holzregal
You can feel in the Museum shop everywhere the last few times the paper and the art of Writing, which was so alive on the Amalfi coast.

The valley of the mills – Valle dei Mullini

Who has time, you can follow the road to the visit even more uphill. Steep cliffs rise up and narrow the way more and more. Now, the industry will start, so to speak, the territory of the ancient Amalfi. Because the river Canneto, which winds between the rock walls, were successively the many family-run paper mills. The river was the life artery for the Paper-mill, because the purity of the water was crucial for the high quality of the finished product. 

Ein Bach fließt durch ein Loch in der Wand
The stream that flows from the valley in the direction of the sea, was the lifeline of the paper mills.
Alte Steinkatakomben
Not always the river was a blessing. Again and again, there was high water, record the water brand shows in the photo. The entire factory was almost 2 meters under water.

Nowadays, the valley of the mills is a beautiful Place for Hiking and Relax. And you can still see the abandoned ruins of the old mills, which give the place a bit Mystical. Gentle ripples of the water, the trees provide shade and the trails are well marked. We don't have, unfortunately, a lot of time for the valley, because the return to our ship is. An extended exploration comes definitely on our wish list for the next trip to the Amalfi coast. 

Alte Ruine einer Mühle in grüner Schlucht
Mystical ancient ruins of the abandoned paper mills in "the valley of the mills appear to be" in Amalfi.
Holzbrücke über einen Bach im Tal der Mühlen, Amalfi
By walk you can explore the beautiful area of the valley.
This is on our wish-list for the next visit.

Arrival from port

Large ships arriving in Naples and offer tours by Mini-Bus to Amalfi. Smaller ships and sailing boats can dock at the Marina or to anchor. The Area around the port and the beach is also a coach Park and the starting point for the Sightseeing in Amalfi and the way to the Museum. The paper Museum is well signposted and within 15 minutes ' walk from the Cathedral square to reach. The entrance costs just a few euros, a tour Guide is mandatory. Tours in different languages, even in English. 

Photo Sources: Title Image @Museo della Carta | Post image 1 lindasky76/ Shutterstock.com | post image 4 + 7 + 8 +10 + 11 + 12 + 13 + 19 +23 @Museo della Carta | Post image 26 Kalina Georgieva/ Shutterstock.com | post image 27 aura Laura/ Shutterstock.com